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María Varela

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Praia das Catedrais

País de turistas

SILENCIO. O vento abanea as pólas cun suave baile. Fala a boscaxe, nun marmurio de fondo.

Agosto, 2017. Ducias de autobuses aparcan fronte unha das praias con máis sona do mundo enteiro. Para baixar á area e pasear entre o seu labirinto de pedra e auga cómpre sacar tíquet. Preto da belísima estampa que esculpe o Cantábrico dorme un camping. Cun balcón sobre o mar que convida a anoitecer co arrolo das súas ondas e espertar cunha das postais máis fermosas diante dos ollos. Entran e saen decotío familias enteiras, parellas e grupos chegados de todo o mundo, e a tarxeta de visita que levan é a dun turismo que aproveita a forza da súa paisaxe, pero que hai anos que non inviste un céntimo en modernizar as súas instalacións. Curiosa estratexia a que vin estender este verán de moito, de frotar as mans en público e recortar ata nos sorrisos.

As redes sociais revelaron polo mundo adiante a nosa realidade


A un tempo, algo máis ao Sur, as navieiras moven bandadas de turistas fascinados polo paraíso galego en travesías piratas. Veñen e van. Cegos polo reflexo dourado do sol —ou das moedas— ignoran as restriccións impostas a fin de salvagardar a xoia da coroa das Illas Atlánticas dos tentáculos do turismo masivo. Disque ós empresarios advertidos lles sorprende a actitude da Administración, porque seica levaban tempo facendo a vista gorda ante a trasfega de viaxeiros que se traían entre mans e nin lles chegan a facer cóxegas as multas nas contas no seu sono.

Entristecín este verán de macro récord turístico ó ver o xeito en que descoidamos o noso e a maneira en que tratamos a quen se achega a nós. Galicia está de moda. As redes sociais revelaron polo mundo adiante a nosa realidade, e a nosa luz. Os esforzos das administracións por colocar este país de arrecendos e cores únicas no punto de mira do turismo deu os seus froitos. O Fuciño do porco, as calas atlánticas, o Canón do Sil, o Camiño de Santiago, as rías altas e as baixas, as serras, as termas e ata os roteiros polas cidades históricas están ateigadas de xente de todas partes cun móbil na man e ganas de deixarse namorar. E nós estamos dispostos a poñer un banco en cada miradoiro, a encher de frechas os sendeiros, a estender alfombras de cemento ata as fervenzas, a levantar unha billeteira na porta do mar se é preciso. A vivir do turismo e non para el.

Como acontece case sempre, non sería xusto meter a todo o mundo no mesmo saco. Que pillabáns, langráns, moinantes e demais familia os houbo toda a vida, aquí e alá, pero tamén hai quen leva tempo apostando polo traballo ben feito. Pola calidade e o auténtico. Hoxe corremos o risco de morrer de éxito. Se non poñemos en orde as nosas prioridades podemos afogar baixo os efectos dunha marea turística que non soupemos sucar.

Non quero que o visitante se leve de nós a sensación de que somos os primeiros en expoliar os nosos bancos marisqueiros e fragas encantadas, en inflar prezos e reducir o tamaño das tapas. Deberiamos ensinar os nosos turistas o que sentimos este fogar noso sendo os máis estritos á hora de respectala. Que o que poñamos na mesa fale de nós. Fagamos da nosa verdade, bandeira. Que quen nos quere coñecer se entere de que temos a mellor materia prima e somos os que mellor a elaboramos, que quen marcha sempre queira volver. E que saiban que por riba de todo somos os primeiros en mimar esta terra. En amar ata os seus silencios.

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