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María Luisa de Bande

LA HISTORIA antigua de Galiza, tal como puede usted comprobar en cualquier libro, se resume de la siguiente manera: hace muchos años, el noroeste de la península estaba habitado por unos paletos ignorantes que recolectaban moras y bebían orines. Con suerte, de vez en cuando encontraban a un ciervo viejo y cojo, lo molían a palos y se lo comían crudo. Los que vivían en la costa también conseguían alguna que otra lapa desprevenida. Así fue hasta que llegaron los romanos, benditos sean, y civilizaron a toda aquella panda de inútiles. Cuando los romanos se largaron llegaron los suevos, unos salvajes violadores que dominaron este territorio durante casi dos siglos. Los suevos tampoco servían para ninguna otra cosa y en esos dos siglos no levantaron una piedra en toda Galiza. Luego llegaron los visigodos, que eran muy listos porque venían de Toledo, y se encargaron de civilizarnos otra vez.

Lo que va a ser difícil que encuentre usted en los libros de texto es que el reino suevo fue el primero que se formó en Europa tras la caída de Roma. Eso es porque historiadores y arqueólogos son unos pinflois que tienen miedo a los suevos. Tampoco encontrará fácilmente el dato de que fue en ese reino, que ocupaba el territorio de la actual Galiza, el norte de Portugal, Asturias y León, donde se creó el primer sistema monetario post-romano. Eso no suele contarse porque la historia la escribieron gente como Sánchez Albornoz o Menéndez Pidal, empeñados en sacar a Galiza de la historia, ya no de la historia de España, sino de la historia de Galiza.

Si usted visita la iglesia más antigua de nuestro país, llama a un número y a los diez minutos aparece María Luisa

En Santa Comba de Bande, Ourense, se encuentra la iglesia más antigua de este país y una de las más antiguas de Europa. Algún arqueólogo extranjero se atreve a decir que es sueva, pero nadie se lo cree porque los suevos eran tontos, así que todo el mundo acepta que fue construida en el año 675 y por tanto no puede ser sueva, sino visigótica. Lo cierto es que el dato se saca de un documento del año 872 en el que se manda arreglar la iglesia por llevar 200 años abandonada, lo que nos obliga a creer que los visigodos la abandonaron nada más construirla. A nadie se le ocurre pensar que si fue construida apenas un siglo antes estaríamos ante una construcción sueva.

Pero uno de los principales argumentos para negar su posible origen suevo es que incorpora un elemento arquitectónico, el arco de herradura, que los suevos no conocían pues como queda dicho eran tontos. Resulta que el arco de herradura más antiguo que se conserva en toda la Península Ibérica no es suevo ni visigótico, sino romano, fue construido en el S. III y está en Santalla de Bóveda, a tiro de piedra de Lugo, en un antiguo templo dedicado a la diosa Cibeles. Lugo era la segunda ciudad más importante del reino suevo tras la capital, que estaba en Braga. Pero claro, como los suevos además de ser unos ignorantes estaban ciegos, no pudieron ver el arco de herradura de Santalla de Bóveda y por tanto no pudieron hacer uno igual en la iglesia de Santa Comba. Fueron los visigodos, cuando llegaron, los que descubrieron el famoso arco de herradura visigótico.

Tampoco es demasiado importante que algunos materiales utilizados en la construcción de Santa Comba procedan, según coinciden todos, del campamento romano de Aquis Querquennis, cuyas ruinas todavía se pueden admirar ahí al lado. Tenemos que creer que los suevos no pudieron coger de ahí las magníficas columnas de mármol italiano en cuanto los romanos desalojaron el campamento, y eso que tuvieron casi dos siglos para ir a por ellas. Las dejaron ahí para cuando vinieran los visigodos, que eran más listos porque venían de Toledo.

Pero lo más curioso de todo es María Luisa. Si usted va a visitar la iglesia más antigua de nuestro país, una de las más antiguas de la Europa cristiana, llama a un número que hay en un cartel y a los diez minutos aparece María Luisa, una señora que viene en delantal. Ella cuida la iglesia, la mantiene, la abre a los visitantes y hace de guía, pues en Galiza valoramos tanto nuestro patrimonio que lo dejamos en manos de una señora octogenaria que se presta a hacer esa labor porque ni Patrimonio ni la Iglesia se toman la molestia. Por pagar, el obispado no paga ni la factura de la luz de un templo cristiano, que fuera suevo, fuera visigótico, tiene cosa de 1.400 años, siglo arriba, siglo abajo. Son los vecinos de Bande los que la pagan de su bolsillo. La iglesia tiene categoría de Monumento Nacional y de Bien de Interés Cultural, ¡pero eso da lo mismo porque ya tenemos a María Luisa para ocuparse de ella! Y por si fuera poco, su marido se encarga de mantener el césped del exterior, así que a los gallegos no nos cuesta un céntimo, ya que ni María Luisa ni su marido cobran por hacer el trabajo que debieran hacer nuestras instituciones.

Total, con mantener la catedral de Compostela, vamos servidos. Tampoco será cosa de preocuparnos por nuestra iglesia más antigua, si a fin de cuentas somos más tontos que los suevos.

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